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Poker Peer Pressure – How Other Players Impact Your Games Just by Being There

Thursday, August 7, 2008, Jace Thomas

Peer pressure is a subject that gets a lot of attention in discussions regarding juvenile behavior, but it's a powerful force for adults as well. Poker is so reliant on interaction and power that it creates an environment where peer pressur...Read more...

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*Text		<p>Peer pressure is a subject that gets a lot of attention in discussions regarding juvenile behavior, but it's a powerful force for adults as well. Poker is so reliant on interaction and power that it creates an environment where peer pressure can be an especially strong factor in decision-making, particularly for newer players or for people making the switch from online play to live poker. Peer pressure has an effect on players in all types of games, but there's a uniquely powerful effect at work in No Limit and Pot Limit games. </p><p>Whether we like to admit it or not, winning the approval of others is a powerful need for everyone. Obviously, it matters more to some and less to others, but the fact remains that this basic social drive can alter the game plan for a session in several ways. The changes can range from very subtle to blatantly obvious - but they all carry negative repercussions for your performance at the table. </p><p>We're going to briefly suggest a few ways that peer pressure gets you off an optimal game, and offer quick suggestions for countering the natural tendencies for wanting others to like and respect us. Hopefully this article will give you a few ideas to take with you to the table in your next session and get you thinking about how much of an impact the other players can have upon you - even when they're not your opponent in a given hand. </p><p>Peer Pressure Makes You Act Faster </p><p>Why it happens: Let's face it, there's something cool in the quick action - it implies decisiveness, control, and a host of other characteristics we'd like to possess. Unfortunately, it all too often results in poor decisions that don't take all the available information into account - and that's a trade off that just isn't worth it. It's not just the 'cool' factor that drives us to make quick decisions - there's also the very real, tangible feeling of impatience you get from other players at the table, especially the ones who aren't involved and just want to move on to the next hand. People don't like to feel like they're annoying others, and when 8 other people are waiting on you, the stares and sighs can get to be a bit much. </p><p>How to check it: Try always taking a little longer to act. This will give you a better sense of how much time is actually passing when you think, will make taking your time seem like a natural act, and will condition the other players at the table to expect you to take a few seconds before you make your move, reducing their annoyance when you take a little longer for the big decisions. People might give you some static, but both they [and you] will get used to it pretty quickly. </p><p>Peer Pressure Over-Commits You to Pre-Flop Raises </p><p>Why it happens: So much of peer pressure is about power - by going along with the group, or by doing something that wins the approval of the group, you gain power. Back down in front of the group and you open yourself up to rejection and abuse - lessons we learned a long time ago on the playground. Now think about what happens when you raise preflop and someone calls - you've just picked a fight. When they stand up to you by betting into you on the flop or check-raising, you now face a situation where folding makes you seem [on some levels] weak - and all the more so because you picked the fight in the first place. Think of how much easier it is to lay down a bet that didn't follow a preflop raise to a check-raise, or how less compelled you feel to take a stab at the flop when you didn't raise the pot. Sure, there's a little more money in the middle when you raise preflop, but rarely enough to justify the impulsive decisions players make to 'protect' their preflop raise [aka their image / ego] when another player challenges them on the flop. </p><p>How to check it: If this is a small problem for you, a deep breath will probably do the trick. However, if you find yourself consistently getting burned in this spot, you need to develop a safety valve. I suggest creating a checklist of factors that have to be met before you're allowed to call a bet / raise in a hand where you raise preflop and forcing yourself to run through that checklist before making any move. Some things that might go on the list: Do I have reason to believe my opponent is bluffing? Do I have a good chance of improving in this hand? Do I have a plan for the next card if I get called or he bets again? </p><p>Peer Pressure makes You Personalize the Conflict of the Game </p><p>Why it happens: When someone lays a beat on you or makes a great play against you [or does both at once, as is sometimes the case] in the live play, it's a lot easier to develop a mentality of playing for revenge, largely because you can put a face to your embarrassment, pain, whatever. This makes a huge difference - as mad as you can get at an invisible opponent online, it doesn't begin to compare how pissed you can become at the living, breathing, visible opponent often just inches away from you. The fact that the person embarrassed you in front of the group creates a loss of face from your perspective that can only be erased by getting even - an eye for an eye and all that. Obviously, making decisions based on revenge is a generally terrible way to play poker and makes you very predictable and manipulable. </p><p>How to check it: This might sound odd, but try thinking about your opponents as seat numbers and nothing else. When I play online, the first thing I do is usually to turn off the avatars simply because I find that being able to think of my opponents as actual people lets me get angrier at them. Depersonalizing opponents in live play is tough, but it's worth the work if revenge play is a big leak in your game. </p><p>Peer Pressure Makes You Buy In For More Than You're Comfortable With </p><p>Why it happens: This is really only relevant to No Limit cash games, and especially relevant when there is no cap on the buy-in. No mystery about why this happens - sitting with a short stack feels weak. Especially in American culture, money equals power, and sitting without money at a table full of towering stacks can make you feel weak. The problem is that playing deeper than you want to or are used to can really jack your game in ways that you won't understand until they happen. </p><p>How to check it: Make a firm decision before you get to the casino and stick with it. Keep your buy-in money in one pocket and your re-buy money in another, or don't pull enough out for the re-buy until you need it [although having to go to the ATM has peer pressure implications all of its own] </p><p>Peer Pressure Makes You Feel Like You Have to Give Action Early </p><p>Why it happens: When you first sit down at a table, you're the new thing - so it feels, accurately, like people are paying more attention to you than the rest of the players at the table. There's a sort of 'spotlight' mentality that kicks in - all those eyes trained on you make it feel like you need to do something to establish yourself (roughly the poker equivalent of dogs pissing to mark territory). This feeling that you're being tested can lead to rash decisions based more on a desire to 'prove' yourself than sound logic and rationality. There's no doubt something to the idea that a loose move or two early can give your opponents the wrong idea for the whole session, but even those spots can be carefully chosen. </p><p>How to check it: Walk in with a clear plan dictating how you plan to play for the first round - the more of a problem you have with stage jitters, the more rigid your plan should be. Make solid, conservative decisions about what hands you are willing to play preflop and wait until you calm down to open up your game a bit. </p><p>Postscript </p><p>No one likes to admit that other people have an influence on their actions, but like it or not, they do - you might be less open to influence than some, but I've never met a person who escapes it entirely. The bad news is that newer poker players are more vulnerable than most. The good news is that once you've come to terms with how peer pressure impacts your game, not only will you have plugged some leaks that are hurting your bottom line - you'll also be able to spot those leaks in others and exploit them. </p><p> </p><p> <img src="http://www.pokerspace.com/uploaded-images-2/1218120458-63555.jpg" style="width:74px;height:42px;" alt="" />

How to Handle Cold Streaks in Poker

Wednesday, January 9, 2008, Filthy

Definition of Cold Streak I define a cold streak as losing a lot of money in a period of time due to either horrible luck or horrible play.Intro to Cold Streaks Until recently, I never believed in cold runs. I always felt that even if I ...Read more...

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*Text		<p><em>Definition of Cold Streak <br /><br /></em> I define a cold streak as losing a lot of money in a period of time due to either horrible luck or horrible play.<br /><br /><strong>Intro to Cold Streaks<br /><br /></strong> Until recently, I never believed in cold runs. I always felt that even if I got terrible cards, at worst, I would lose a nominal amount. In reality, it was only because I couldn't properly identify a bad run of cards. Every time I had a horrible streak of cards, I'd unconsciously play very poorly. I would blame my play rather than my cards for my losing ways. This caused me to lose a lot more money than I should have lost. Whether you blame the cards you are being dealt or your play during a bad run doesn't matter. What matters is that you are likely not properly identifying when you are running poorly. I think the most important remedy for this terrible but inevitable part of poker is to identify when you're on a cold streak and really focus on playing your A game. <br /><br /><strong>Identifying Cold Streaks</strong> <br /><br /> I've had two huge cold streaks in my poker career. Both times came after a huge rush. At the beginning of each rush, I was playing well and winning money because of it. However, after a few sessions my cards were running so well that I let my cards play for me. I began to fail to put the proper thought into each hand. I only thought about how good the rush was and I focused on the money rather than playing my A game. <br /><br /> Strangely enough, I started to question why I was winning so much. I started to expect the rush to stop and consequently start losing. However, I was enjoying the moment too much and didn't stop to analyze my play and watch others play. My vision on the table felt very blurry, but I couldn't stop playing. As I had expected, I started to lose and before I knew it I was on a bad run. <br /><br /> I know the feeling of these cold streaks very well. The first time I was on a cold streak, I thought everyone was bluffing me. It was impossible for me to lay down hands because I thought of that small possibility of getting bluffed out. I always thought people were stealing from me if I got raised on the flop and thus always reraised. On the river, I'd make excuses for myself and call any bet if I had a pair. It was disastrous. I took the game very personally. <br /><br /> However, during my second cold streak, every time I got raised, I wanted to fold. If I raised preflop, I prayed that everyone with position on me would fold. If they called, I had no idea what to do. I felt paralyzed just by people calling my preflop bets. After an extended period of this mindset, I finally realized how weak I was playing. This awareness allowed me to evaluate my play and I started playing well again. Not much later, A hand came up where I flopped second pair and got raised on the flop. I KNEW my opponent was on either the straight or the flush draw so I pushed all in to make him pay for his draw. Then I thought to myself, "Wow, I actually had a read on my opponent." I was out of the cold streak and it seemed like my vision became clearer. <br /><br /><strong>Getting out of a Cold Streak</strong> <br /><br /> After identifying a cold streak, the next important thing is to work to end it. I suggest taking a break. Take a break from anything related to poker to clear up your head and forget those bad habits that you've been developing. After that, I would suggest watching a few of your friends play. You should watch players who are either on your level or a little better. Have them explain their every move to you and review those important concepts that you've forgotten. Or you can watch the videos that the pros have time preparing for their members. Another good idea is to take yourself when you think you are playing A+ game and either save hand histories or record yourself playing. That will give you something to reference when you feel you are no longer playing your A game. <br /><br /> If you're playing well but just have horrible luck, switch to another site for a while. It doesn't hurt to do that. Sometimes playing at different sites will teach you different things too. Be sure to be honest with yourself though. It is very easy to convince yourself you are playing your A game when you aren't playing anywhere near your best. <br /><br /><strong>Conclusion</strong> <br /><br /> Due to the luck factor in poker, it is a game where it is very hard to evaluate how well you're playing. It's very important to understand and evaluate your short term results with accuracy. Playing your A game all the time is one of the most important aspects to being a successful poker player.</p>

How to Use Poker Tracker

Tuesday, January 8, 2008, Green Plastic

Poker Tracker (PT) is a great tool for any poker player trying to keep track of their results as well as improve their play. In this article I am going to explain to you how I use PT to increase my bottom line at the tables. For those of ...Read more...

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*Text		<p>Poker Tracker (PT) is a great tool for any poker player trying to keep track of their results as well as improve their play. In this article I am going to explain to you how I use PT to increase my bottom line at the tables. For those of you that don't know, PT takes hand histories and stores them in a database that gives you all of the stats you could possibly want about both yours and your opponent's play. <br /><br /> First, you need to get in the habit of "grabbing" all of your hand histories. There are programs available on the PT website (<a rel="nofollow" target="_blank" href="http://pokertracker.com">http://pokertracker.com</a>) that will save all of your hand histories so they can be easily imported to PT at the end of the session. I use one of these programs to save my hands on UB. If you can't find a grabber for the poker site you play on, you can request your hand histories from customer support. It is essential that you get into the habit of saving ALL of your sessions. It is tempting to not track your play when you are running poorly, but do yourself a favor and grab all of your hands so PT can give you an accurate assessment of your game. <br /><br /> I am not going to give you too many specific statistics to look for, as different PT stats would vary among some top players (depending on game, stakes, style, etc.). Rather, I am going to explain to you the process of how I use PT to make sure I am playing my best game over time. I have found that it is easy to develop bad habits in poker, and PT is the main tool I use to "police" myself and make sure I am not getting sloppy. <br /><br /> The first thing you should do is look at your Vol. Put $ In Pot column. This means how often you are putting money into the pot (pre-flop) when you don't have to (i.e. not on the BB or on the SB but you fold). My percentage is 34.81%. I would imagine this is pretty high compared to what most NL players would have because I am very aggressive and I usually play short-handed. However, there is something you can take away from this statistic. My pre-flop raise percentage is 25.46%. What does this tell you? Over two-thirds of the time I am voluntarily putting money into the pot I am RAISING. I am playing a lot of hands but I am NOT calling. This is very important. <strong> I think this is the single most important piece to becoming a winning no-limit cash game player. When you enter the pot, be the aggressor!</strong> Even if your numbers vary from mine, make sure that the majority of the time you are voluntarily entering the pot you are the raiser. <br /><br /> Also, take a look at how often you are folding your SB/BB to a steal (folded SB/BB to steal). I fold 78% of the time in the SB and 70% in the BB. This is noteworthy because I am playing shorthanded. I am not playing very often out of the blinds when a late-position raiser makes a standard raise. Even though I know that he probably has just as bad of a hand that I have, I am giving up my blinds and waiting for a better spot. I would suggest that you try to make sure your numbers in these columns are as high as mine, if not higher. <br /><br /> My Attempted to Steal Blinds percentage is pretty high at 34.5%. This means that when it is un-raised to me in late position I make a raise 34.5% of the time. Remember, I am playing short-handed as well so this figure is probably higher than I would recommend most NL players playing. <br /><br /> Another tool that I recommend using on PT is the Misc. Stats tab. At the bottom of the screen you can filter the stats to see your month-to-month results. I like to look at my voluntarily put $ into the pot over time. I compare my stats month-to-month and I make sure that I am staying pretty consistent. There are times when I notice that I am playing too loosely and I will make a conscious effort to tighten up my play. Look at how your stats are changing over time and you can see how your game is progressing. <br /><br /> I hope this helps, feel free to post on the boards about any questions or other PT comments.</p>

Gaining Self Control at the Tables

Monday, December 3, 2007, CasaJJ

Over the past few years I have been an active member on numerous poker forums and I'm amazed at how often I see posts from people asking for help because they've lost their bankrolls. They cite all kinds of reasons and many don't have the ...Read more...

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*Text		Over the past few years I have been an active member on numerous poker forums and I'm amazed at how often I see posts from people asking for help because they've lost their bankrolls. They cite all kinds of reasons and many don't have the necessary poker skills, but most of these players simply lack self-control at the tables. <br/><br/> Lack of self-control can mean tilting, playing in an unfocused state of mind, playing outside of your bankroll or just being apathetic at the tables. I myself used to tilt in a very odd way. I wouldn't get mad or angry, but I would become somewhat numb and not care about the money. Sometimes it would be brought on by boredom, other times by bad beats or simply a bad day in general. <br/><br/> Early in my poker years I went bust a number of times before realizing that I needed to do something about it. I had read every book, watched every video and played numerous hours of winning poker. I knew that I COULD play well, but I didn't all of the time. The problem was that the profits I would make in ten hours of solid play could easily be lost in ten minutes of poor play. <br/><br/> I began reviewing my records and discovered that most of my big loosing sessions weren't brought on by a bad beat that led to tilt. Instead, I would usually experience a slow decline in my focus as I played a session which would eventually result in poor decisions that started out small, but became more and more costly as time went by.<br/><br/> There were many reasons for losing focus during sessions. I would watch television, talk on the phone, chat on instant messenger, surf the web, eat, and any number of other things all while multi-tabling at my chosen poker site. All these diversions kept me from getting bored, while I grinded away at the tables and I didn't think it affected my game. After all, I won 90% of the time. The problem was that eventually all of these distractions led to poor decisions and those few losing sessions that would wreck havoc on my bankroll. To help regain self-control at the tables I drew up a list of rules and rituals for myself and promised to follow them for one month. At the end of the month, I was amazed at how well they had prevented me from losing focus and having those tilty sessions. As an added bonus, they also helped me to improve my BB/100 over the long term.<br/><br/> So what did I do? I created a binder. Before each and every session I would open the binder and read the first page that had a series of 10 questions for me to answer before playing. These 10 questions were key to increasing my profitable sessions at the tables. The questions are:<br/><br/> <strong>1. Are you rested?</strong><br/><br/> Playing tired is an easy way to lose focus and make poor decisions at the table. Never play tired.<br/><br/> <strong>2. Have you set a session length?<br/></strong><br/> I would often sit at the computer and just play for hours on end, eventually leading to a lack of focus. By setting a predetermined session length I forced myself to take a break after a period of time. Eventually I found that for me sessions of thirty to forty minutes worked best. <br/><br/> What if I'm in a juicy game when my session is up? STOP. I'ld rather stop while in control than take a chance at jeopardizing a chunk of my bankroll. Besides, after a ten or fifteen minute break the table will probably still be going and I can rejoin with a renewed focus.<br/><br/> <strong>3. Will you be free from distraction?<br/></strong><br/> This is a big one. Turn off the television, instant messenger, phone, etc. I even ask my wife to not interrupt during my poker sessions. The key for me to play my A game is to have no distractions whatsoever. <br/><br/> But what if you get bored? Well, then you shouldn't be playing. Get interested in the game. Study opponents, make reads even when you're not in a hand, find leaks in your game. All of this focus will pay off in dividends. And remember, with shorter session lengths you won't become bored as easily.<br/><br/> <strong>4. Are you prepared to keep records?</strong><br/><br/> I log every session, the date, length, buy-in, game type, miscellaneous session notes, starting balance and ending balance. When you get to see your long-term results on paper you can identify trends. For example, I noticed that over time sessions of 30 to 45 minutes were the most profitable for me. Now I plan all of my sessions for no longer than 45 minutes without a break.<br/><br/> <strong>5. Are you prepared to record key hands and review your session?<br/></strong><br/> This was key to improving my game. Prior to each session I open up Notepad or Word and as key winning and loosing hands come up I save them. Following the session I review the hands to identify leaks in my game. <br/><br/> <strong>6. Do you have your charts handy?<br/></strong><br/> When I play I like to have a default strategy - a style of play and hand ranges that work well for me against unknown players. To help keep me in line with that 'ideal' range I created a chart for pre-flop hand selection that I keep in my binder. I have it handy when I play to help keep me from loosening up too much. If I know my opponents I will sometimes deviate from my chart, but only when it is a conscious choice and not out of boredom. I also like to keep odds charts and other info in my binder. I may not refer to it often, but when I need it I have it right at my fingertips.<br/><br/> <strong>7. Do you have Poker Tracker and PAHUD set to run?<br/></strong><br/> If you truly want to maximize your time at the tables you should be using both of these programs. Take the time to get them up and running, even if you are just sitting down for a quick ten minute session. They may help you make decisions that could result in considerable money won or saved.<br/><br/> <strong>8. Do you promise to play within your bankroll?<br/></strong><br/> Playing outside of your bankroll is a sure way to go broke. It may not happen today, tomorrow, this month or this year, but if you do not practice proper bankroll management you will eventually go broke.<br/><br/> <strong>9. Have you determined a stop loss?<br/></strong><br/> Some people feel that if you are in a good game where you are a better player than your opponents you should keep playing even if you're losing. Their rationale is that in the long run you'll outplay them and profit. However, you have to realize that if you're losing, you will not be able to play your A game. Even Phil Ivey agrees with me on this one. He has said that no player, regardless of how good they are, will ever play as good when they're losing as when they're winning. Set a predetermined number of buy-ins that you're prepared to lose and if you lose them, STOP. Do not try to recoup your losses. Take a break and wait for another session.<br/><br/> <strong>10. Do you promise to play your A game?<br/><br/></strong> Have you ever felt like you were playing okay, but not your best? If so, why play? Promise to always play your A game or not at all and if you find yourself slipping be sure to stop. Not in 5 minutes or when the blinds come around to you, but immediately. Whether it is because you're tilting, you're hungry, the kids won't stop yelling, or any other reason that you're not playing your A game - STOP. Are these questions/rules too restrictive? Sure, they can be, however if you are the kind of player who lacks self-control at the tables they are exactly what you need. I have read these rules over thousands of times and continue to do so prior to each session. They remind me of important things to do at the table and put me into a good frame of mind. <br/><br/> I know that there are sessions where I could have won more by sticking around longer, but I'm okay with that. I also know that I have given up on money from time to time when playing my B game would have been okay because my opponents were playing their C game, but I'm still happy I left the table. My point is that while I may have given up smaller profits here and there, I have maximized the time I do spend at the tables and most importantly, I have not gone broke or lost a significant amount of my bankroll since incorporating this pre-game ritual into my sessions.<br/><br/> In addition to these questions/rules I also set up a list of rules for myself when at the tables (see my article "Playing By The Rules"). Some of them are very general, some very specific, but all serve a purpose. They are in my binder and I review them on a regular basis to remind me of things I think are key rules to follow at the table.<br/><br/> I think of my binder as my Poker Bible. If I come across important information, key hand histories or even inspirational quotes, I add them to the binder. It is a resource for improving my game and keeping my focus in check.<br/><br/> I realize that this structured approach to playing poker isn't for everyone, but if you're a player who lacks self-control at the tables you should give it a shot. Just make that first promise to follow these rules for a month and then evaluate the results. My hope is that you'll find them as successful as I did and you'll never have to make another forum post about going broke.<br/><br/> Good luck at the tables.<br/><br/> Jason Billows<br/> a.k.a. CasaJJ<br/> "No guts, no glory" No brains, no bankroll!!<br/>

How To: 12 Tabling

Monday, December 3, 2007, Corny

I want to share my experience with heavy multi-tabling with you as I struggled myself with it for a long time. Multi-tabling is a common thing in online poker. Most people play 2-4 table, some play 6, some even 8 and a few maniacs play 12 ...Read more...

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*Text		I want to share my experience with heavy multi-tabling with you as I struggled myself with it for a long time. Multi-tabling is a common thing in online poker. Most people play 2-4 table, some play 6, some even 8 and a few maniacs play 12 tables. This is my experience of multi-tabling lots of tables in the LOWER LIMITS (NL10-100 maybe 200). I recommend it to low limit players because you can build your bankroll quite easily and the main point is that you gain EXPERIENCE, which is one of the things a good poker player has to have. <br/><br/> <strong>Pros of 12 Tabling:<br/></strong> - Hands per hour: You WILL PLAY something between 950 and 1200 hands. Thats 20 hands a minute, 1 hand every 3 seconds.<br/> - Rake: You produce a lot of rake and get a lot of rakeback. 1000 hands on NL50 are normally worth 10$ Rakeback (on FT).<br/> - You will gain a LOT of experience because you'll see so many hands and boards.<br/> - You will get a much better feel for the game when you play a lot.<br/> - It's easier to tighten up, you have 1 hand every 3 seconds, you don't have to play LAG (if you are uncomfortable with it). Also it doesn't get boring and you avoid stupid moves.<br/> - You have bigger upswings because of a few things. You are not known for being good on one and the same table (Let's say you play a hand really well, you double through it and other players notice that -> they play carefully against you. But you have 11 other tables where probably no one from at table fears you yet.), Plus your rushes will be awesome!<br/> - You face a lot of dumb opponents (we're talking about low limits) that will pay you off your big hands even if you play tight. Extract the money from the fish!<br/> - Normally your BB/100 will get smaller because you just play a bit worse but your winnings will be more simply because you play more.<br/> <br/> <strong>Cons:<br/></strong> - You will NEVER play your A-game. You think you do? You don't. I thought I'd play my A-game when I play 12 Tables at the same time and after each review of my session I have to admit that I play a A-B game.<br/> - You have bigger downswings because of a few things. Bad beats happen everywhere and might get you to tilt a bit. While it's not that big of a problem when you are playing 2 tables it's getting a really big issue in heavy multi-tabling. Tilting will crush your bankroll.<br/> - You don't improve your hand reading skills) BUT you gain a lot of experience (increased hands per hour).<br/> - Reviewing your big hands and your overall game takes a lot more time because you have many hands to review. For me that's a good thing because if I get in more tricky spots, I improve my game but time is an important factor everywhere in life and of course in poker too.<br/> - People start playing back at you when they see that you are multi-tabling (can be dropped in games up to NL50)<br/> - You have no reads about your opponents because you can't spectate the hands you are not in.<br/><br/> <strong>So now you have an idea what multi-tabling is about, I have set myself a few rules or tips which I (and you) should stick to very closely. <br/><br/></strong> 1) Never ever tilt.<br/> You'll burn your money, you'll bust your bankroll. If you have a tilting mentality don't even try to play 12 tables. Remove the tilt issue from your brain. I've done it by saying to myself: Be patient, you'll play so many hands, your spots will come - wait for them and play them as good as you can! <br/><br/> 2) You don't have to win every single pot.<br/> Wait for your massive hits (sets, str8s, flushs, 2pair, etc.) and play carefully. Don't gamble, don't do coinflips if you can avoid them. You may fold the best hand a lot of times but you will strike back when you have a big hand. That doesn't mean you should play a more passive way (all cardrunnermembers should know that aggression is GOOD) - just ask yourself: Do I want to play for stacks with my TPTK? Maybe you should wait for a better spot because you don't have any reads of your opponents and don't know if they are capable of a big bluff or an allin with TPSK. Let's say you open AcKd from the button, BB calls,is deepstacked and has the stats 19/15.<br/><br/> Flop: Kc 5h Qc, BB checks, you bet, he calls.<br/> Turn: 2s, he checks, you bet, calls.<br/> River: 8s, he goes all in. What do you do? You have no reads, he has a big stack and maybe doesn't play like a donk. You decide to call because you think he might have a combo draw TcJc and is on a complete bluff, he shows 55 and you lose. Keep away from risking your stack with just TPTK!<br/><br/> 3) Tighten up a bit.<br/> If your normal game is 22/20 you can drop to 18/16 or even 16/14 - there is no need to play tons of hands - if you can handle playing a LAG style while playing 12 tables do it BUT be aware of that it's much harder to play a LAG style when you don't know your opponents. <br/><br/> 4) Don't bluff too much, avoid it totally if you struggle to keep track of the games. Your bluffs will look so bad most of the time because you just can't interpret the situation well when you don't have time to think about it. For sure you will add the element of bluffing in your game because it's good but don't do it when you start with 12 tables the first week. <br/><br/> 5) There are 2 very basic concepts of post flop play: Either you CBET nearly every flop or you stick strictly to PAhud (read below). I think it's best to get the table flow and decide individually. Use PAhud as it would be your water in the desert. Don't use it, USE it. I can't stress enough how important it is. If you don't have it, don't play 12 Tables. Here are some hints that are required to play so many tables.<br/><br/> a) You need the following stats: PFR, VPIP, CBET, Fold to CBET, Aggression factors on each street.<br/><br/> b) Interpret the stats! I won't get in detail with the PFR and VPIP stats because everybody should know about it. CBET and Fold to CBET are the key stats, Aggression factors are also very important.<br/><br/> This is why: You normally don't have any reads. You see his stats: CBET 90%, Fold to CBET 60%. You opened, he called. You have to CBET because he will fold in 6 out of 10 times. Bet nearly ANY board. Other way round it's the same, he CBETS 9 out of 10 times, if you have a piece (or don't - you want to bet the turn if you are in position) float him or reraise him. Rely to the stats, don't even think about it if it's not a hyper wicked board like 9sTsJs. Aggression factors are also quite interesting because opponents might get that you play just standard ABC poker with some exceptions and play back at you. If you face an opponent whose Aggression stats are below 1.5 he has a good hand in 90% of the time. If you face a very aggressive player- well, tough decision. Just try to get a feel for him and watch some showdowns. Don't get in tough spots, wait for your chance! <br/><br/> c) Rely on the stats and don't make stupid decisions. That might sound a bit like a bot- like player without your own decisions but it really helps you when you are just starting to play more tables. <br/><br/> 6) Make notes if you can. Notes can help you to get reads on your opponents even if you don't watch every hand they play. <br/><br/> 7) Play within your bankroll and keep to it STRICTLY. A MINIMUM of 20 buyins behind is REQUIRED. If you drop to 18 buyins move down. Your swings will be a lot bigger then they are on just 2 tables so don't fool around with your bankroll management - 8buyins+- in one hour can happen very quickly.<br/><br/> 8) Don't play longer then 1 (max 90min) hour. You simply won't even play your B-game anymore - you play C to D. Relax some time, start again.<br/><br/> 9) Review your sessions closely but NOT within one of your pauses.<br/><br/> 10) Switch tables frequently if you see that the table averages (VPIP below 20%) get nasty or if you feel uncomfortable with your opponents.<br/><br/> This article is for multi-table beginners (and maybe some experienced multi-table guy finds something useful in it) so the rules and tips are just basic things. Once you can handle the tables you'll play more and more LAG, you have a better feeling for your tables, you don't make your decisions with just PAhud, etc. <br/><br/> I recommend winning players to try it out, grind the low levels and when you move up get back to 2-4 tables, adjust your play, try to beat the opponents and add a table if you feel comfortable. Thanks for reading. <br/><br/> corny for cardrunners.com

When to Double Barrel

Monday, December 3, 2007, Muddywater

One of the topics I am frequently asked about is when it is appropriate to double barrel. The term double barreling refers to a player making a second continuation bet without a made hand on the turn. The question of when to double barrel i...Read more...

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*Text		One of the topics I am frequently asked about is when it is appropriate to double barrel. The term double barreling refers to a player making a second continuation bet without a made hand on the turn. The question of when to double barrel is an incredibly open ended question that has countless variables affecting the answer. However, there are general guidelines that can be followed to determine when a second barrel can or should be fired. <br/> <br/> Many low limit players tend to overcompensate and fire too many barrels. They feel that the LAG style requires them to run a lot of bluffs. In fact, playing a LAG style is much more about using position than anything else, such as running a lot of bluffs. The essence of LAG play is to create the illusion that you are playing looser than you really are. This means that, at times, you will need to make a bet on the turn with nothing, but it should only be done with caution. <br/><br/> In most instances, after a flop continuation bet, it is best to surrender an unimproved hand. This is especially true at lower limits. Double barreling is more effective at the higher limits (5/10+). There are too many unsophisticated calling stations at the lower limits. Reads also come into play more in the higher stakes games. In these games the opponents are much more observant. In addition, often times, there is history between players as well. <br/><br/> I typically only double barrel about 20% of the time. By only betting a fraction of the time, my bets are able to retain respect. At the same time the occasional double barrel will allow doubt to enter the mind of my opponent. I believe there is more value in having added respect on the turn than having complete disrespect. A good player should be able to manipulate hands in his favor, allowing him to get paid off on good hands. When you don't have a hand, which occurs more often, you will want respect. The fact that I know my second bet gets respect a lot of the time influences the situations I double barrel in. If I felt my respect on a table was low, I would not double barrel at all. The opposite is true when I have a lot of respect. <br/><br/> The most apparent spot to make a second bet is when your opponent is obviously floating you. This situation applies more when you are playing the hand out of position. It is usually unlikely for a player to float out of position on a regular basis. When you notice that you are getting floated by a specific player, it is often a good idea to start making some double barrel bets. This will typically win you the pot while sending a message at the same. <br/><br/> Unless you are constantly getting floated, you will want to consider the board texture and the speed of the game before making a second continuation bet. Most often, you will want a scare card to come on the turn. For instance, if the board reads Q72 and the turn is an A, you can often represent the ace and bet again. However, if the board read Q72 and the turn was a 2, you wouldn't want to bet very often. In the former example you can force out a pair of queens. In the latter, it is unlikely that queens will fold. However, one thing to consider is the second card. If the board's second card is a card close to the top card, there is a reasonable chance that your opponent called your first continuation bet with second pair. An example of this would be on a KJx board. Your opponent would often call a flop bet with a hand like AJ, but would typically fold to a bet on a blank turn. <br/><br/> Situations where semibluffs are possible are also good spots to make a second bet. This situation, however, is more read based. The problem lies in the fact that if you bet the turn and are check-raised, you often have to fold the hand. The exception is when you have put in a lot of money and have a combo draw. Otherwise, you won't be getting the right odds to call a push. Therefore, by taking a second stab at the pot you eliminate your free card and chance of making your hand cheap. You will need to keep an eye on your opponent tendencies. Two important factors to consider are how often your opponent slow plays big hands and how frequently he check-raises. His timing can also play a significant role. Usually an instacall on the flop signals weakness. Opponents tend to hold a hand that is mediocre but not great when they instacall the flop. They know that they will call and not raise or fold and therefore there is little thinking to be done, hence the instacall. <br/><br/> The most important thing to realize is that double barrel bets should be used with low frequency. Their purpose is to keep your opponents honest and also to build action for when you have a real hand. Even occasional use will plant the seed of doubt in your opponents mind during future encounters. Double barreling is a necessary tool as long as it is used in the right scenarios and with the right frequency. The next time you find yourself mindlessly firing two continuation bets or convincing yourself that your opponent is weak for no reason, stop and consider if you are in a favorable situation to fire that second barrel. Most times, you probably aren't. <br />